Leaky Faucet Repair Guide

Turn off the water supply by rotating the shut-off valves under the sink clockwise. Open the faucet to release any remaining water and pressure from the lines. Place a towel or plug over the drain to prevent small parts from falling in.

Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap using a flathead screwdriver to reveal the screw. Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver or hex wrench to remove the fastener, then lift the handle off. If the handle is seized, apply penetrating oil to the threads.

Disassemble the internal components based on your faucet type: For compression faucets, remove the stem nut with a wrench and pull out the stem. For ball faucets, remove the cap and collar to expose the ball, cam, and washer. For cartridge faucets, remove the retaining clip with needle-nose pliers and pull the cartridge out. For ceramic-disk faucets, remove the escutcheon cap and unscrew the disk cylinder.

Inspect and replace worn parts. For compression types, replace the seat washer and O-ring. For ball types, replace the inlet seals, springs, and cam washers. For cartridge types, replace the O-rings or the entire cartridge. For ceramic-disk types, clean or replace the neoprene seals. Tip: Take old parts to the hardware store to ensure an exact match.

Lubricate and install new components. Coat new O-rings and washers in plumber's grease to improve the seal and longevity. Reinsert the repaired or new internal components (stem, ball, cartridge, or cylinder) into the valve body, ensuring they are seated correctly.

Reassemble the faucet by replacing the nut, collar, handle, and decorative cap in the reverse order they were removed. Tighten all fittings snugly, but do not overtighten to avoid cracking the parts.

Test the repair by turning on the water supply valves. Run the water for several minutes to flush out air and debris. Turn the faucet off and check both the spout and the handles for leaks. If the leak persists or you are uncomfortable with the repair, call a professional plumber.