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Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation Guide

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Safety Warnings

  • If the existing flooring was produced during the 1980s or earlier, test for asbestos before removal; if found, hire a professional for removal.
  • Wear eye protection and heavy leather gloves when removing old laminate or vinyl planks as edges can be sharp and chips can cause eye injuries.

Tools Needed

Phillips #2 — standard
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Adjustable 8-inch — wrench
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Utility knife — heavy-duty
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Rubber mallet — large
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Tapping block — manufacturer-approved
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Pry bar — standard
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Circular saw — standard
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Materials

Vinyl plank flooring — click-lock or peel-and-stick(room area plus 10%)
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Flooring underlayment — roll type(as needed)
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Underlayment tape — house wrap tape(1 roll)
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Spacers — 1/4-inch(1 set)
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Concrete patch — standard(as needed)
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Steps

1
Acclimate the vinyl plank flooring by removing it from packaging and placing it in the installation room for at least 2 days prior to installation to prevent buckling or gaps.
2
Remove baseboards by scoring the caulk line with a utility knife and using a pry bar to gently pull the trim away from the wall. Number each piece to ensure correct reinstallation.
3
Inspect the subfloor for levelness and flatness. Sand wood or concrete imperfections with 40- to 60-grit sandpaper, repair concrete cracks with concrete patch, or replace damaged wood sections.
4
If the flooring does not have pre-attached underlayment, roll out underlayment across the floor. Butt the strips together without overlapping and secure the seams with house wrap tape.
Underlayment Seam Subfloor Press tape Butt underlayment strips together and seal seams with tape.
5
Measure the room's width perpendicular to the flooring direction. Divide this by the plank width to ensure the final row is at least 2 inches wide; if not, rip the first plank thinner to balance the layout.
Wall Plank width Final row Measure width Check last piece Ensure the final row is at least 2 inches wide to avoid unstable slivers.
6
Set the first plank in a corner with the grooved edge facing the wall. Place spacers between the wall and the plank to maintain a 1/4-inch expansion gap.
Vinyl Plank Expansion Spacer Wall Insert gap Position first plank with spacers to maintain 1/4-inch expansion gap from wall.
7
Install the first row. For click-lock planks, connect the second plank at an angle into the first and use a tapping block and mallet to secure it. For peel-and-stick, remove the backing and use a roller to flatten the adhesive.
Spacer Vinyl Plank Tapping Block Tap firmly Use a tapping block and mallet to lock planks together.
8
Install additional rows by cutting the first plank of the new row to be at least 6 inches shorter than the previous row to stagger the seams. Randomly vary the lengths of off-cuts to create a natural look.
Cut plank Previous row Full plank stagger seams offset > 6" Start new rows with cut planks to stagger joints for stability.
9
Complete the final row by ripping the planks to size with a table saw, maintaining the 1/4-inch expansion gap at the wall.
Wall Expansion gap Table saw Rip to size Cut the final row plank to fit while leaving a 1/4" gap from the wall.
10
Remove all spacers and reinstall the numbered baseboards and trim to cover the expansion gaps. If any serious structural subfloor repairs were needed, consult a flooring professional.

Pro Tips

  • Sort planks by pattern before installation and rotate through them to avoid identical patterns appearing side-by-side.
  • Buy 10 percent more flooring than the calculated square footage to account for waste and cutting errors.

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