Use a NIOSH-approved organic vapor respirator, neoprene or vinyl gloves, and eye protection with splash guards when applying sealers and oil-based polyurethane.
Ensure the room is well-ventilated by opening windows and running fans to circulate air during staining and sealing.
Use plastic sheeting to cover vents and doorways to prevent the spread of dust throughout the home.
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Steps
1
Clear the room of all furniture and rugs. Secure any loose floorboards using finishing nails and remove quarter-round shoe moldings using a pry bar.
2
Fill deep gouges or scratches with a color-matched stainable wood filler. Allow the filler to dry, then lightly sand the area with fine-grit sandpaper until smooth and level.
3
Sand the floor in three passes, moving in rows and overlapping each run by half the sander's width. Start with 60-grit sandpaper, follow with 80-grit, and finish with 100- or 120-grit. Use a palm sander for corners and baseboard edges.
4
Thoroughly remove all sanding dust using a heavy-duty shop vac with a brush attachment. Follow this by wiping the floor with tack cloths or rags dampened with mineral spirits to ensure a clean surface.
5
Apply wood stain to one 2-foot section at a time using a lambswool applicator. Rub off all excess stain with a rag, ensuring the 'wet edge' does not dry to avoid lap marks.
6
Apply a thin, even coat of polyurethane using a high-density foam roller, using a brush to cut in around the perimeter. Begin at the wall opposite the exit and work toward the door.
7
If the sealer requires sanding between coats, use a 320-grit abrasive to lightly sand the surface, vacuum again, and apply a final second coat of polyurethane.
8
Allow the floor to dry completely. Wait at least 24 hours before walking on the floor and up to 72 hours before replacing furniture.
Pro Tips
Keep the orbital sander level at all times to avoid creating difficult-to-remove sander markings.
Oil-based stains stay workable longer than water-based stains, making them easier to apply evenly over large areas.