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Steps
1
Assess the tree's structure and identify the primary skeleton branches. Establish goals for the prune—such as shaping for shade or removing damage—and identify which branches define the main structure, as these should generally not be removed.
2
Sterilize all cutting tools using rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) to prevent the spread of fungus and bacterial diseases between branches or trees.
3
Remove damaged, dead, or diseased wood first. For healthy growth, thin out dense patches by removing branches that grow inward toward the center of the tree to improve air circulation and light penetration.
Tip: Dead or dying wood can be removed at any time, regardless of the season.
4
Execute the three-cut method for larger branches to prevent the bark from tearing away from the trunk. First, cut into the underside of the branch halfway through; second, cut from the top side further out to remove the limb; finally, make a precise cut to remove the remaining stub.
Tip: Do not cut flush against the trunk; leave the stem collar (the thickened area where the branch meets the trunk) intact to help the tree heal.
5
Shape the tree by pruning branches that stick out at odd angles or act as obstructions to walkways and structures. Follow the tree's natural growth habit rather than fighting against its innate shape.
Tip: Avoid 'topping' the tree (cutting the main leader trunk), as this creates weak, spindly water sprouts and compromises structural integrity.
6
Verify that you have not over-pruned. Ensure that you have not removed more than 20% to 25% of the tree's crown in a single season to avoid shocking the plant or inducing suckering.
Pro Tips
For most deciduous trees, the best time to prune is during the dormant season (late fall to early spring) after leaves have fallen.
Always make final cuts thin, angled, and clean to facilitate faster recovery.
Use anvil-type pruners for dried or dead branches and bypass pruners for live, green wood.